Just to recap; First I stitched the upper to the fabric sole with my sewing machine. The distance from the needle to the edge of the presser foot is 8mm, hence the stitch line is 8mm in from the edge on the runner sole. That way my hand stitching will go neatly over the top of the machine sewing.
Cutting out soles and runner soles; I’m using 5mm and 3mm respectively medium density EVA sheet material for this. (Think flip flops) This will keep the sole light and thin, but cushiony, and I’m free to add another layer later if I want to, of textured high density sole material possibly.
Always test to see if it all fits and looks good, before you stitch it together forever!
Then clamp your shoe into place, prepare a thread (about 2 double arm lengths should do it) and attach a saddlery needle to each end. I’m using thick industrial sewing machine thread (double bonded nylon) so my ends are not attached…You can use cotton or linen thread, but I wouldn’t wax it with beeswax here, as the wax will stop the glue from sticking properly. With cotton or linen thread you can poke and pull the needle through the end of the thread to attach it. It makes it easier to pull the needle through the hole, and your needle can’t fall off!
Pull the thread through until you have 2 equal lengths on either side of your work, and do a couple “on the spot”. The best place to start is the inside waist of the shoe. (Where your arch is) You are ready to stitch!
Hold the needle between your first 2 fingers. Stick the awl in from the back, straight to the front, put your left needle through from left to right as you pull out the awl with your right hand, then put your right needle through from right to left. Slowly pull your hands apart pulling the stitch tight (but not too tight!) Take care not to sew through the other thread! Using the 2 needle method makes the stitches more regular, and you can pull them tight more evenly.
Adjust the clamping position as you go along, and take the opportunity to have a good look to check it’s all looking nice and even:-)
And then of course the other foot….